Nestled in the heart of Austria, Graz is a city that beautifully blends historical charm with modern innovation. As you wander through its picturesque streets, you'll find yourself enchanted by the striking contrast of ancient architecture and contemporary art. From the futuristic design of Kunsthaus Graz to the tranquil beauty of Eggenberg Palace, every corner of Graz tells a story. Take a leisurely stroll up the Schloßbergsteig for breathtaking views of the city, or relax on the Island in the Mur, an architectural marvel set in the middle of the river. No visit to Graz is complete without indulging in the local culinary delights, from crispy pommes frites to the flavorful döner sandwich. Join me as we explore the sights and tastes of this captivating city.
Top Sights in Graz Austria
Island in the Mur: During our first day walking around Graz, we decided to head down to the Mur River. We were then greeted by the Island in the Mur, or Murinsel, an artificial island in the middle of the river in Graz, Austria. Designed by the American artist Vito Acconci, the structure was created in 2003 as part of Graz's year as the European Capital of Culture. The Murinsel is a floating platform accessible via footbridges connecting it to both sides of the river. It has a unique, shell-like design made of steel and glass, giving it a futuristic appearance. This structure was a nice change from all the older, classical buildings we had become accustomed to experiencing during our time in Austria.
The island features an open-air amphitheater where various cultural events and performances take place. There is a café on the island, offering a place for visitors to relax and enjoy the view of the river and the surrounding city. The island also includes a playground area, making it a family-friendly destination. The Murinsel is not just an architectural landmark but also a symbol of modernity and creativity, reflecting Graz's cultural vibrancy.
Unfortunately, when we visited during the offseason, the café and amphitheater were closed. However, it was still nice to walk through the installation and get a brief escape from the busyness of the city. I would recommend visiting in the summer if you want to get the full experience of relaxing in the café and taking a break from all the sightseeing.
Kunsthaus Graz: The Kunsthaus Graz, often referred to as the "Friendly Alien" due to its distinctive design, is a contemporary art museum in Graz, Austria. Designed by architects Peter Cook and Colin Fournier, the Kunsthaus Graz opened in 2003, the same year as the Island in the Mur. The museum is situated on the banks of the Mur River, adding to its visual impact and making it easily accessible to visitors exploring the city. As we walked down Lendkai street, this building obviously stood out compared to the rest. Its unique, blob-like shape with a blue, iridescent skin made of acrylic panels sets it apart from the surrounding historic architecture.
The most innovative feature of the Kunsthaus is its BIX media façade, which integrates a large-scale, low-resolution screen into the building's exterior. This façade can display animations and patterns, turning the building itself into a piece of interactive art. The museum focuses on contemporary art, showcasing works from the last four decades. It does not have a permanent collection but hosts temporary exhibitions featuring a wide range of media, including visual art, film, and photography.
During your time in Graz, the "Friendly Alien" or Kunsthaus Graz is a must-visit. Even if art is not your thing, you will still want to check out the exterior of this museum to experience the contrasting architectural styles. For art enthusiasts and anyone interested in innovative architecture and contemporary cultural experiences, buying a ticket to check out the exhibits is well worth it.
Castle Hill Trail: During our time in Graz, this sight was the most recommended. Castle Hill Trail, or Der Schloßbergsteig, is a set of steep stairs leading up Castle Hill, or Schloßberg, a hill in the center of the city topped by the iconic Uhrturm (Clock Tower). The Schloßbergsteig is a popular trail for visitors who prefer to walk up to the Schloßberg rather than taking the elevator or the cable railway. Along the way up, we found several viewpoints to rest and enjoy the scenery. You can find cultural events or musical performances taking place on the Schloßberg, although nothing was going on at the time we visited.
We preferred climbing the stairs as they provide beautiful views of Graz. At each viewpoint area, you can stop to take in the city's red-tiled rooftops, historic buildings, and the contrasting modern buildings, like the Kunsthaus Art Museum. We decided to take the cable car on our way back down as we were getting hungry and wanted to find some street food.
The Schloßberg itself has historical significance, having been the site of a fortress that dates back to at least the 10th century. The climb can be quite a workout, but it's a rewarding experience for those who enjoy a bit of exercise and wish to explore one of Graz's most famous landmarks. This most recommended sight did not disappoint; it is a must-do when in Graz.
Street Food Finds
Pommes frites: When visiting Graz, you can expect to find many street food vendors located in Hauptplatz, the city's most famous square. We were on a mission to find what the locals call pommes frites. Pommes frites is a term derived from the French name for fries and is used widely across German-speaking countries, including Austria. Commonly known as French fries, you might see them served in various ways. In Austria, they are often accompanied by ketchup or mayonnaise. The tradition of serving mayonnaise with fries is particularly strong in Belgium and the Netherlands, and this custom has spread to neighboring countries.
We were served the pommes frites in a paper dish with two wooden forks and a side of mayonnaise with ketchup. We decided to eat them right in the middle of the square, so we sat by the fountain in Hauptplatz and enjoyed them with a local beer. They were crispy, and the mayonnaise was a surprisingly nice touch. You will want to experience this simple but fun culinary delight; it was a good way for us to get introduced to Graz on our first day in this new city.
Döner Sandwich: After having Austrian food for the past few days, we decided to switch up the flavors we were experiencing. We were on the lookout for a döner kebab sandwich, which is a popular fast food item originating from Turkey. The döner sandwich is widely popular in Europe, where it has become a staple of late-night street food. It is made up of sliced meat cooked on a vertical rotisserie, spices and herbs, pita bread, and fresh vegetables. It is served with sauces like garlic yogurt sauce, spicy chili sauce, tahini, and hummus. We decided not to top it with other condiments like pickled vegetables or hot peppers.
To find this dish, we headed down a smaller side street and walked into the most local-looking sandwich shop we could find. We ordered the sandwiches and then continued down the road to sightsee and eat on the go. This was my favorite street food item I tried during our time in Graz due to the many flavors and textures this dish offered; it was exciting to eat.
Beyond the City
Neighborhoods: After spending our day out of the city enjoying nature at Grazer Urwald, a local nature preserve, we headed back into the city and decided to take the longer route back, exploring the more residential part of town. Whenever I travel, I always like to head down quiet side roads to get a real sense of the city I am in, taking in the unique character of each place. The side road we were on showcased houses that were mostly made up of traditional Austrian/Alpine architecture styles and also included some modern architecture styles.
The common characteristics of these Alpine houses are exteriors covered in stucco, a common material in Austrian architecture for its durability and insulation properties, along with wooden cladding, which is often used in Alpine regions for its aesthetic and practical qualities, adding warmth and traditional charm to the structure. In between the traditional Alpine houses, we found some modern houses sprinkled throughout the neighborhood. Some of the modern houses looked like they came straight from L.A., which I found particularly interesting.
It was easy to spot the differences between the two styles, with modern architecture featuring a clean, minimalist look with straight lines and simple geometric shapes, along with large windows and glass balcony railings that allow for ample natural light and create a sense of openness.
Eggenberg Palace: During our last day in Graz, we wanted to check out the famous peacocks at the Schloss Eggenberg gardens. The palace is located outside of the city center, so we had to take a tram and then take a small hike to finally reach the site. Often referred to as Eggenberg Palace, it is one of the most significant and well-preserved Baroque palaces in Austria. This palace was constructed in the early 17th century, commissioned by Hans Ulrich von Eggenberg, an influential statesman. Its design reflects the cosmology and astrology interests of its founder, with symbolic numbers and motifs integrated into the architecture, including the beautifully decorated state rooms with intricate frescoes, stucco work, and period furnishings. The Planetary Room is particularly famous for its ceiling paintings depicting the solar system.
Schloss Eggenberg is famous for its historical and cultural importance and houses significant art collections, including the Alte Galerie, which displays European paintings from the Middle Ages to the Baroque period. It also hosts exhibitions of coins and archaeological artifacts. The expansive gardens are a highlight, featuring a mix of Baroque and English landscape styles with landscaped lawns, ancient trees, and peacocks roaming freely. These birds were often kept in the gardens of European aristocracy during the Baroque period to add an exotic and colorful element to the landscape. The peacocks have been a part of Eggenberg Palace ever since, becoming an iconic feature of the estate.
Seeing the peacocks was my favorite part due to the unexpected nature of finding these birds in such an unlikely place. Schloss Eggenberg is a must-visit for anyone interested in history, art, and architecture, offering a glimpse into the opulent lifestyle of the Baroque period and the rich cultural heritage of Graz.
-cferTravels
Christian Fernandez
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